Along a 175-mile route from Jasper to Banff, a seemingly endless succession of peaks towers over deep glacial valleys and turquoise lakes. Streams fed by an ice field a quarter-mile thick cascade through rock-walled canyons. Elk and deer frequent the roadsides, and in the backcountry are mountain caribou, bighorn sheep, grizzlies and wolves. There’s boating and canoeing on pristine lakes, whitewater rafting, kayaking, fishing, mountain biking and spectacular hiking. The route, quite simply, ranks among the world’s great road trips. And it’s an ideal summer vacation choice for families.
This itinerary includes stops at my favorite new hotel discoveries in the region, including stops in Alberta’s two major cities: unexpectedly vibrant Edmonton and western-inflected Calgary. I omit my two longtime-favorite hotels in Yoho National Park, Emerald Lake Lodge and Cathedral Mountain Lodge, but those with more time could easily add one into their itinerary, or use one as a substitute for the Post Hotel & Spa.
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Arrive at Edmonton’s airport, pick up a rental car and drive to the landmark Fairmont Hotel Macdonald, set on the edge of a bluff overlooking parkland along the North Saskatchewan River. Have dinner in The Harvest Room, which has wide views over the river valley.
After breakfast, drive four hours west to Jasper National Park, and check into the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. The hotel has a grand spa, which would be a perfect place to relax after the long drive and lunch.
Spend these days exploring Jasper National Park. You might try some guided hikes, and fly fishing and/or a boat tour on lovely Maligne Lake. For the more adventurous, mountain biking and horseback riding are also available, as are helicopter tours and whitewater rafting excursions.
Drive three-and-a-half hours south to Lake Louise, passing through mile after mile of spectacular mountain scenery. The entire route is surrounded by national parkland. Have the Fairmont pack a snack for the drive, because there are few restaurants along the way.
Check into the Post Hotel & Spa. This property lacks the lake views of the iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, but it also lacks the crowds of tourists that throng that hotel in high season. Take advantage of the hotel’s Temple Mountain Spa and dine in the property’s restaurant, which ranks among the finest in Canada.
Take one day to explore the area around Lake Louise, and devote another to Yoho National Park, just a little farther to the west. Alternatively, make a 20-minute excursion south to Moraine Lake, a little turquoise jewel that is surely one of the loveliest places on the planet. A public hiking trail surrounds it, and you can have lunch at the Moraine Lake Lodge’s Snowshoe Café.
Drive 45 minutes to Banff and The Rimrock Resort, which overlooks the Bow and Spray river valleys. Settle in, and in the afternoon, go on a guided hike or perhaps play a round of golf on one of the magnificent nearby mountain courses. For dinner, The Rimrock’s Eden restaurant is superb.
Continue exploring Banff today. The town originally became famous for its hot springs, and it remains supremely relaxing to “take the waters” in the Upper Hot Springs. Nearby, the Banff Gondola offers panoramic views of the Bow and Spray valleys and six mountain ranges from glass-enclosed cars that climb 2,300 feet to the top of 7,486-foot Sulphur Mountain. Scenic hiking trails extend from the summit, including a steep three-mile one that leads back to the base.
Drive 90 minutes to Calgary, return your rental car at the airport and depart on your flight home.
Alternatively, check into the modern Le Germain Hotel Calgary and spend the afternoon shopping and sightseeing, visiting the excellent Glenbow Museum of art and history. Have dinner tonight at River Café, a lodge-style restaurant serving locally sourced food in Prince’s Island Park, or Rouge, which serves simple ingredients imaginatively prepared in a 19th-century mansion on the Bow River. Depart the following day.
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