Gentle hills are layered over one another like paper cutouts.
Returning to Naples, we boarded a high-speed ‘italo’ train and whizzed up to Florence in less than three hours. We then continued our journey by car. I wonder whether it is possible ever to tire of Tuscany: Gentle hills are layered over one another like paper cutouts; orchards of age-gnarled olive trees still bear abundant fruit; and vineyards furrow the slopes like green wide wale corduroy.
On the way down from Florence to Siena, I could not resist meandering through the vineyards of Chianti, making a rewarding stop at the Monterinaldi vineyard, where the welcome was warm and the tasting program informative, relaxed and exceptionally enjoyable. (See my article here.)
Back on the road, we headed south, and after a 90-minute drive, spied a hilltop castle of golden stone. As we drew closer, I realized that this was our destination. Castello di Poggio alle Mura, a fortress that once marked the southern edge of the Republic of Siena, is now the centerpiece of the Tuscan holdings of the American wine firm Banfi. In the 1980s, Banfi’s owners, the Mariani family, completely restored the fortress, which World War II and general neglect had left in perilous shape. They further improved the property by repairing the adjacent tiny village of field workers’ homes. And in 2007, they opened Castello Banfi, with two restaurants and an extensive wine shop/tasting room, plus a charming hotel, Il Borgo, of nine rooms and five suites.
During the ensuing days, we enjoyed relaxing by the pool with its sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside.
Set in stone buildings along a paved “street,” the accommodations are done in a lovely Tuscan country house style, with dark wood furniture and terra-cotta tile floors. Our Double Room Riserva had two floors, the main featuring a seating area with a couch and armoire. A stone stairway led to a lower level, where we discovered a spacious bath and the cozy bedroom. A complimentary bottle of Banfi Brunello awaited us; later, a bottle of the top-of-the-line ExcelsuS arrived with a welcoming note.
A prevailing mood of generous hospitality greatly added to our enjoyment. In the main dining room, an intimate space with a mural of intertwining grape vines, the staff took orders with charm and grace. The cuisine was superb, and I was happy to be able to indulge in one of my favorite dishes: a rich ragu of wild boar on a bed of fettuccine.
During the ensuing days, we enjoyed relaxing by the pool with its sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside, touring the nearby winery and marveling at the glass collection in the Museum of Wine and The Bottle. Best of all was a cooking class that culminated in a late but utterly delicious lunch.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The glorious views of the Tuscan countryside; the superb cookery school.
DISLIKE: Very little, other than the lighting controls in our room, which were confusing.
GOOD TO KNOW: This property is best suited to those who want elegant rusticity; it is not super-luxurious.
Castello Banfi – Il Borgo 94 Double Room Riserva, $1,275; Sutie, $1,630. Castello di Poggio alle Mura, Montalcino. Tel. (39) 0577-877-700.
Sixteen miles to the north, Castiglion del Bosco also straddles a hilltop. There, a captivating hamlet of stone buildings has been restored and transformed into a sophisticated resort by Massimo Ferragamo, a scion of the famous footwear and fashion dynasty. For more than 800 years, the borgo lay at the center of an agricultural community. Comprising 4,500 acres in the Val d’Orcia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the estate encompasses vineyards, as well as forested hills that are home to deer, pheasant, hare, partridge and wild boar. Nowadays, there is even an 18-hole golf course designed by Tom Weiskopf, of which we had a fine view as we drove up the long, twisting road from the gates to the crest of the hill.
On arrival, we were escorted along a stone-paved allée flanked by cypress trees to the vine-wrapped buildings of the borgo, which house all 23 rooms and suites (plus three of the 10 farmhouse villas). The living room of our suite displayed a pleasing blend of pale polished stone floors, cream walls, a beamed ceiling and dark furniture, including a large dining table, couches and reading chairs. Equally spacious, the bedroom contained a forged metal four-poster bed. The sumptuous bath came with a deep tub, a walk-in shower, and perfect light for either shaving or applying makeup. A terrace ran the full length of the suite and featured chaises longues, a glass-topped metal table, chairs and a border planted with lavender.
The more formal of the estate’s two restaurants, Campo del Drago, is named for the property’s top Brunello di Montalcino and serves classic Tuscan cuisine. My favorite dish was an artful presentation of hare with seasonal vegetables. At the more casual Osteria La Canonica — so named because it occupies the former priest’s house — pizzas and pastas highlight the menu. A Tuscan pizza topped with local salumi was outstanding, as was a dish of fettuccine with fresh porcini mushrooms.
The walled kitchen garden contains seasonal plots and beds with more than 180 varieties of vegetables and herbs.
At a cooking school located above the osteria, we participated in a “Fresh Pasta” morning class. Steps away, the walled kitchen garden contains seasonal plots and beds with more than 180 varieties of vegetables and herbs. We also took part in a well-conducted wine tour and tasting. Among the other activities at the resort are hiking, biking, golf and tennis. Yoga and spa treatments are available, and we spent happy hours relaxing beside the gorgeous infinity pool overlooking the Tuscan hills.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The huge suites; the delicious cuisine; the magnificent infinity pool.
DISLIKE: The resort is quite isolated; this promotes a feeling of privacy, but can be slightly inconvenient when you want to visit other sights.
GOOD TO KNOW: Those in search of a refined and elegant experience of high order will not be disappointed.
Castiglion del Bosco 98 Special Room, $800; Junior Suite, $940; Suite, from $1,100. Localita Castiglion del Bosco, Montalcino. Tel. (39) 0577-191-3001.
Given the many similarities between Castiglion del Bosco and Castello Banfi, you might well ask what differentiates them. The answer is aesthetics and atmosphere. Banfi is more rustic in character and, being smaller, more intimate. Bosco is more refined and international in style — although the interior design does not stray too far from the local sensibility — and slightly more formal. I recommend both unreservedly.
This article appeared in the December 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Tuscany: Two Blissful Country Retreats.”
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