Italy is an inexhaustible destination: a new place always beckons. Our latest foray began in the ancient city of Naples and on the nearby island of Ischia. Many years ago, heading into Naples after a memorable visit to the nearby Amalfi Coast — Positano lies 35 miles to the southeast — I recalled the old saying “See Naples and Die” and wondered whether it might not be more prescriptive than descriptive.
Back then, the city was renowned for crime, grime and vehicular chaos, but it hadn’t always been that way. In the 19th century, Naples was often extolled as one of the most elegant and sophisticated cities in Europe. The 20th century was less kind. A major port, Naples was subjected to heavy Allied bombing in World War II and was extensively damaged.
Naples' operatic exuberance is invariably a compensation.
Of late, however, the city seems to have come to grips with some of its persistent problems: The piazzas are tidier; public buildings have been cleaned; and certain well-walked avenues have been designated for pedestrians.
On our recent trip, we enjoyed strolling through the narrow streets and never felt unsafe. To be sure, Naples is still gritty in many areas, but its operatic exuberance is invariably a compensation. At restaurants and cafés, diners not only relish their food, but engage in vigorous debate about the preparations, the ingredients and the overall merits of the chef. The great actress Sophia Loren, who grew up in Naples, famously remarked, “Nothing makes a woman more beautiful than the belief that she is beautiful.” I suspect that this kind of unshakable self-confidence is similar to the pride that the Neapolitans have in themselves and their great city.
A beautiful garden with landscaped borders has views over the Castel dell’Ovo to Vesuvius
We stayed in two hotels while in Naples: one modern, the other more traditional. (You can find my review of the former, the Romeo Hotel, here). While much of the waterfront can be hectic, the neighborhood of Santa Lucia provides a civilized vantage point from which to take in the bay, the impressive 12th-century Castel dell’Ovo and the adjacent marina full of pleasure craft. There, the 121-room Hotel Excelsior has been a favorite with the famous and the fashionable since it opened in 1909. Entering the expansive lobby, I could see why: Crystal chandeliers, green marble columns, a grand staircase, warm wood paneling, gilded mirrors, antique busts, Oriental carpets and terra-cotta urns all combined to create an environment of traditional opulence and patrician style.
Our lovely sea-facing Deluxe Room featured décor in keeping with the impressive entrance. With its high ceilings, parquet floors, fabric-covered walls, handsome furniture and effective lighting, we felt we were in the comfortable and reassuring embrace of classic Old World style. A marble-clad bath more than met our needs, although I would have preferred a walk-in shower. Among the modern conveniences I was happy to find reliable Wi-Fi.
Atop the hotel, the charming La Terrazza restaurant (serving Neapolitan specialties) takes full advantage of one of the finest views in Naples. A beautiful garden with landscaped borders has views over the Castel dell’Ovo to Vesuvius and, when the weather is good, the rocky spine of the Sorrento Peninsula and the beckoning isle of Capri. Everywhere in the hotel, the staff treated us with exemplary professionalism. In particular, the concierges were affable, knowledgeable and always ready with detailed recommendations. Although the Excelsior has a gymnasium, there is no pool.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Patrician style; affable staff; location within walking distance of major sights.
DISLIKE: Some rooms can be small; the bar and restaurant are closed on Sunday.
GOOD TO KNOW: The lovely bar and rooftop restaurant at a nearby sister property, the Grand Hotel Vesuvio, are open on Sunday. The Excelsior will appeal to those in search of a more traditional hotel in an excellent location.
Hotel Excelsior 91 Deluxe Sea View Room, $305; Suite, $790. Via Partenope 48, Naples. Tel. (39) 081-764-0111.
A short cab ride brought us to Molo Beverello, the port for ferries and hydrofoils to the islands. Forty-five minutes away, Ischia is dominated by the long-dormant 2,589-foot Mount Epomeo volcano, whose green slopes are dotted with little towns and vineyards. Although Epomeo slumbers, geothermic activity has blessed the island with more than 100 hot springs. About six miles east to west and four miles north to south, the island does not have the striking peaks and grottoes of its smaller neighbor, Capri. Nor is it a place that draws a glitzy see-and-be-seen crowd. (Its most famous part-time resident is German Chancellor Angela Merkel.)
Ischia’s port is unremarkable, but the taxi ride to our destination quickly lifted our spirits. Along the winding coastal road, we passed glamorous villas and appealing small beaches with rows of chaises longues and blue umbrellas. And in the small town of Lacco Ameno, we found a main street lined with smart-looking shops, and a perfect little piazza with fountain and pastel-hued church. Turning down a driveway, we came to L’Albergo della Regina Isabella. Noted publisher Angelo Rizzoli opened the hotel in the ’50s, attracted by its location and its geothermal waters. The property quickly drew a smart crowd — Burton, Taylor, Callas — as well as assorted royals from all over Europe.
The setting could not be more charming: A small cove is flanked by a cliff crowned with umbrella pines; boats bob in the marina; and a series of rock jetties provides ample space for sunbathing, as well as access to clear water for swimming. Inside, the hotel is no less appealing. The intricate tile floor of the lobby caught my attention as soon as we entered. From an original building, the hotel has expanded to 128 rooms over the years, the last section being the elevated Royal Wing overlooking the sea.
We could not have liked our room more, thanks to fine woodwork, a stylish blend of antique and contemporary furniture, Murano glass light fixtures, ample storage space and, best of all, two terraces with sweeping views of the bay. We were also pleased to have two baths: one with a deep tub, the other with a walk-in shower. (Many of the suites in the Royal Wing come with whirlpools.)
In the hotel’s three restaurants, we found the staff consistently solicitous and charming. Lunch is served in the Sporting Restaurant, where floor-to-ceiling windows run along the water. Each day, a superb buffet is set out. And you can also order dishes such as the outstanding shellfish risotto we enjoyed. The main dining room, Regina Isabella Restaurant, also features expansive windows and is divided into three sections delineated by tented ceilings. It is an elegant, sedate room, and I was glad that I had brought along a blazer. The menu is classic Italian and much of the service is tableside; I thoroughly enjoyed watching the precision of our waiter as he boned and served a local snapper. The third restaurant, Indaco, presents more experimental cuisine under the direction of Michelin-starred chef Pasquale Palamaro. Other amenities include the Terme della Regina Isabella, which offers a lengthy menu of spa treatments, some employing thermal water and local volcanic mud.
With its sublime waterfront location, gracious service, delicious food and notable spa, the Regina Isabella is a wonderful resort to which I hope to return very soon.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: Being in a self-contained little world. Although right in town, the hotel’s three restaurants, two bars, two pools, complete spa and seaside bathing make it hard to leave.
DISLIKE: Because it is built on different levels, the layout of the hotel can be confusing.
GOOD TO KNOW: Do not book any accommodation lower than a Superior Seaview Room.
L’Albergo della Regina Isabella 94 Superior Seaview Room, $540; Junior Suite, $1,010; Suite, $1,285. Piazza Santa Restituta 1, Lacco Ameno. Tel. (39) 081-994-322.
The name comes from a crenellated watchtower once used as a lookout for pirates.
Although it is no more than a 15-minute walk away, the Mezzatorre Resort & Spa has an entirely different setting. Located on 17 acres at the end of the Punta Cornacchia, a rocky promontory in the northwest of the island, it offers sublime coastal views. The name comes from a crenellated watchtower once used as a lookout for pirates. The tower now houses 20 of the hotel’s 57 rooms, as well as a lounge and a library. Pathways follow the contours of the terrain, the most impressive being the corniche-like walkways down to the pool and ultimately to the sea. From reception, the route to our accommodations in the “Foresteria” building was uphill, but it was a delight to stroll through the pristine air scented with pine and salt. Our suite was divided by curtains, which separated a bedroom with a four-poster bed from a sitting area with a tile floor, couch, reading chair and credenza. The bath was spacious and well-equipped. Outside, a seaview deck with chaises longues and a hot tub proved hard to resist.
After the meal, we lingered in the soft pine-scented air, listening to the waves breaking on the rocks of the cove below.
We took lunch in the casual and airy Sciuè Sciuè restaurant, situated next to the pool and overlooking a private cove. There, the menu offers uncomplicated but delicious Neapolitan cuisine, and we relished both our classic mozzarella salad and spaghetti with three varieties of ocean-fresh clams. The weather being favorable, we ate dinner on the terrace of the more formal Chandelier. A dish of penette with spicy arrabbiata sauce was followed by perfectly grilled swordfish. Service was prompt and friendly. After the meal, we lingered in the soft pine-scented air, listening to the waves breaking on the rocks of the cove below.
Mezzatorre has a lovely spa with a full range of treatments and massages, as well as weeklong slimming and detoxification programs. Although we felt little incentive to leave the grounds, a regular shuttle runs into nearby Lacco Ameno.
Both Mezzatorre and the Regina Isabella are exceptional resorts, and in many ways, there is little to choose between them. The essential difference, however, is that one is close to town and overlooks an animated harbor, while the other is an idyllic hideaway in an exquisite natural setting.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The rural serenity only a few minutes from town.
DISLIKE: The plantings separating our deck from those adjoining were spindly.
GOOD TO KNOW: This is a place exceptionally conducive to relaxation and contemplation.
Mezzatorre Resort & Spa 95 Deluxe Park Room with Whirlpool and Sea View, $710; Tower Suite with Sea View, $1,376. Via Mezzatorre 23, Forio D'Ischia. Tel. (39) 081-986-111.
Venturing inland to the hillside village of Casamicciola Terme, we also stayed at the 58-room Terme Manzi, a spa resort that takes advantage of the healing waters discovered by Luigi Manzi in 1863. Entering the expansive lobby, we found a world of bright colors, exuberant glass chandeliers and elaborate metalwork. Our suite was more subdued, with blue-gray walls, cream tile floors and elegant contemporary furniture.
Before dinner, we enjoyed a drink on the lovely terrace of the Gli Ulivi Restaurant. There, tables are interspersed between venerable olive trees that add much character to the setting. The menu offers classic Campania dishes with a fine selection of pastas. Alas, I cannot be so complimentary about the hotel’s pretentious Il Mosaico restaurant, where we dined the following evening. (How this place managed to acquire two Michelin stars will ever remain a mystery.) I will not bore you with a recitation of its absurdities, but the presentation epitomized the triumph of a chef’s ego over his guests’ desire to eat well. At the end of the meal, we were invited to pay homage in the kitchen. We declined, recalling the days of greats such as André Soltner, when Lutèce was the finest restaurant in New York. Every night, chef Soltner would step away from his stoves and take time to visit each table in turn.
If you are looking for an exemplary spa, Terme Manzi is worth considering. The range of treatments is impressive, and the staff are highly skilled. We enjoyed relaxing beside the lovely pool on the hotel’s roof garden. From this vantage point, the views up to Mount Epomeo are quite inspiring. But lower your eyes, and you look down on the roofs of the houses surrounding the hotel. Overall, the locations of our two previous hotels are greatly superior.
AT A GLANCE
LIKE: The wonderful spa with full-size thermal pool; the Campania cuisine in the Gli Ulivi Restaurant.
DISLIKE: The Il Mosaico restaurant, which is more about theater than gastronomy.
GOOD TO KNOW: This property is primarily for those interested in a spa experience.
Terme Manzi 89 Junior Suite, $825; Suite, $1,020. Piazza Bagni 4, Casamicciola Terme. Tel. (39) 081-994-722.
This article appeared in the December 2014 print edition of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report under the headline “Bustling Naples and Tranquil Ischia.”
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