Shanghai

At first glance, the appearance of this popular restaurant on the edge of the Jing’an District might surprise you. It is set in a grand three-story Spanish-style mansion that dates to the 1930s, and while a décor of dark wood and colorful tile is not usually associated with fine Chinese cooking, that is what the kitchen delivers. You’ll find appetizers such as tea-smoked eggs, and sweet lotus roots. Look also for deep-fried shrimp in wasabi sauce, braised Shanghai pork belly, and pork dumplings filled with broth.

Located in what was once the French Concession, this lively restaurant occupies a striking two-story space that retains some of the art deco touches that characterize the landmark Jin Jiang Hotel, of which it is a part. The menu abounds with creative takes on Shanghai cooking and classic Chinese dishes — look for the deconstructed version of Peking duck with foie gras. The shrimp dishes are notably good, and the dumplings are standouts.

This stylish restaurant sits atop the historic 1925 Nissin Shipping Building, which gives it superb views of the Huangpu River and the Pudong business district. You will find standouts such as smoked salmon with fennel, dill-encrusted baby potatoes, a Champagne sabayon and Manchurian caviar; leg of lamb that’s salt-encased and slowly baked, then served with roasted garlic, crispy potatoes, char-grilled vegetables and a pot of parsley pesto; and chicken ballotine that’s boned, rolled, roasted and served on a pile of orzo, artichokes and black olives.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten is consistently successful with Asian-inspired dishes: I think of his lamented Thai-inspired Vong and Spice Market, both in New York. Here in Shanghai, he is ensconced in Three on the Bund, a 1916 Beaux Arts building reinvigorated in 2004 with the Shanghai Gallery of Art, an Evian Spa and seven floors of shops. At Jean-Georges, the intimate, clubby atmosphere and attentive staff approach perfection, especially when paired with the famous chef’s impeccable Asian-fusion offerings: ribbons of tuna, avocado and spicy radish with ginger marinade; scallops with caramelized cauliflower and a caper-raisin emulsion; and snapper crusted with nuts and seeds, all in a sweet-and-sour jus.