India

A charming if slightly run-down “heritage” hotel, the Samode Haveli has an exceptionally pretty dining room with dark wood furniture, crystal chandeliers, marble floors and old oil paintings. Outside, a delightful terrace overlooking the gardens is a serene place for a relaxing lunch after a hectic morning’s sightseeing. The Rajasthani thali (a platter with numerous small dishes) is delicious.

Having been in business for more than 65 years, Niros is a Jaipur institution, popular with locals and visitors alike. The ambience is casual and the décor is scarcely the last word in chic, but the North Indian and tandoori cuisine is consistently excellent. For those who are tiring of chicken jhal frezi and bhuna gosht, there is an extensive Chinese menu.

The best-known Taj hotel in Jaipur is, of course, the Rambagh Palace, but the group also has a second property, the Jai Mahal Palace. There, the Indian restaurant, Cinnamon, serves delicious dishes from the Punjab, as well as classic Mughal cuisine.

I am extremely fond of Indian food, and, over the years, have come to enjoy highly spiced dishes. But there comes a point in every trip when a European menu seems an appealing prospect. Bar Palladio in the Hotel Narain Niwas Palace is the creation of Barbara Miolini, an Italian/Swiss expatriate. The exquisite peacock-blue tented interior by Dutch designer Marie-Anne Oudejans provides a wonderfully exotic setting for classic Italian dishes such as fettuccine al funghi, penne all’arrabbiata, pumpkin ravioli and, of course, tiramisu. The eight garden pavilions should be reserved in advance.

This is the first restaurant by hometown chef Vineet Bhatia, who enjoyed great success in London with two Michelin-starred restaurants. Housed in The Oberoi hotel, the opulent space is designed to recall an emperor’s palace, with gold ceilings, gold mosaics, gold plates and backlit screens, plus the modern addition of a large window looking into the kitchen. Bhatia describes the cuisine as contemporary Indian food, so you may see starters like tandoori home-smoked salmon in honey with wasabi hummus and stir-fried edamame and radish, and main courses such as lamb marinated overnight in Indian spices, grilled ginger-chile lobster with curry leaf broccoli, spiced cocoa powder and charred lime; or chile-glazed chicken served with corn fritters.

Always noted for its superb seafood but previously hard to recommend because of its hole-in-the-wall décor, this restaurant has spruced itself up with improved lighting and much better furniture. The seafood is impeccably fresh and draws an impressive cross section of the great and good of Mumbai. Among the dishes worth considering are the prawns in butter with pepper and garlic, and a classic chicken tikka masala. Also look for the excellent gassi, spicy seafood curries done with coconut, curry leaves, ginger, chile and garlic.

Located in Lakshmi Hills district, Mumbai’s former industrial mill area, Masque is a discreet restaurant with a uniquely designed interior where colorful hand-blown glass lights are countered by dark furnishings and muted marble accents. The restaurant offers a 10-course prix fixe menu comprised of regularly changing market-driven dishes that emphasize regional specialties, which makes for a menu that is eclectic and lively. Thus, you may find dishes such as roasted duck served with veri masala and a smooth rice pancake, lightly peppered oysters with sea buckthorn, and braised lamb tripe accompanied by crunchy turnips, all with a spicy marsala-style jus.

The design of this atmospheric restaurant is meant to summon the spirit of the northwestern frontier. The dramatic two-story interior has an impressive beamed ceiling and features large urns and old oil lanterns. The cooking emphasizes kebabs and tandoori dishes. Try the dal chicken sautéed with onion, ginger, garlic, curry leaves and rich red masala; or kheema seekh kebab, minced lamb marinated overnight in a spicy red masala of ginger, garlic and green chiles, which is skewered and grilled.

With a stylish two-story interior, The Table embodies a global aesthetic reflected in the menu. The chef is Alex Sanchez, who has extensive experience in San Francisco and the greater Bay Area at highly regarded places such as La Folie and The French Laundry. Look for dishes such as red-wine risotto with shimeji mushrooms, shrimp dumplings in a spicy ginger broth with scallion oil, a fresh yellowfin tuna tataki and a rich Provençal lamb ragu with pappardelle. Indian? No. Delicious? Yes.